CITRUS FRUITS
The first time you see an ugly fruit or pomelo or kaffir lime, you may not know what is inside, but you know it is citrus because of its skin. The genus of subtropical fruit called citrus is botanically described as aromatic, leathery-skinned berries with eight to fifteen internal segments containing juicy pulp.
Unless organically grown, citrus fruits usually arethinly coated with wax. If you want the best tasting citrus fruits we suggest that you buy organically grown fruits. Fruits are supposed to be picked fully ripe, which is usually the case, because the ripeness of oranges, for example, is regulated by law in citrus-producing states. Choose citrus that is heavy for its size-it will be the juiciest. Ignore the color of the rind, since it may have no bearing on the interior quality (some mature but green oranges may have been dipped in orange vegetable dye and this must be stamped on the box.). Tasting a fruit is the only sure test of quality. As with all fruit, superficial marks are of no importance, but avoid pieces with deep bruises, soft spots, or mold and any that feel spongy or shriveled. All ripe citrus except limes and grapefruits can be stored at room temperature for about 2 weeks. Room-temperature fruits yield the most juice and the most perfume. For longer keeping, wrap in perforated plastic bags and store in the refrigerator crisper.
Most preparation of citrus fruits is simple. To extract the juice, pierce the fruit with a knife and microwave for 30 seconds or place the fruit in hot water for a few minutes. Then roll each piece under your palm on a hard surface until the inside feels soft. Both heat and pressure release juice from the cells. To quickly juice a small fruit or two, hold the cut side of the half against the palm of your hand and squeeze firmly. Seeds will be trapped inside. To juice several fruits, you can choose between a citrus press which often has a built-in strainer, or a wooden reamer which is handy but necessitates straining the seeds from the juice. Store citrus juices in a dark glass jar with a screw lid for maximum preservation and keep it cold. Stored this way, freshly squeezed juice retains nearly all its vitamin C for about 24 hours, although its flavor will deteriorate.
In grating or peeling citrus skin, remove just the top colored layer, as the white pith beneath is bitter. However, this white membrane (the albedo) is very rich in pectin (soluble fiber). When peeling citrus, include as much of the white membrane as you can bear to eat; its flavor is not so bitter as to ruin the flavor of the fruit. When juicing citrus to drink, stir the pulp back in if your press has strained it out.
The only fussy preparation of citrus is segmenting the fruit for a salad or dessert. This takes not skill but time and it is worth it. Without its tough bitter casing, the delicate citrus pulp sparkles. Slice off the top and bottom of the round fruit, down to the flesh. Stand the fruit on a grooved cutting board (to catch juices) and use a serrated knife to cut off the rind in even slices. Trim away any remaining white membrane. Free each segment by cutting down against the membrane on either side. Lift out the segment and remove any seeds. Squeeze all the juice from the membranes into a bowl. The best way to slice citrus very thin is to have the fruit chilled and use a thin, sharp serrated knife.
Citrus both cans and freezes well, and the peel dries beautifully.